Dev Motel Resources and Information

Archive for the ‘DSLR Camera’ Category

Introduction

One of the main reasons in producing a property tour would be to make sure things are all in perfectly sharp focus. This can seem an obvious thing to cover, but capturing the facts throughout the full depth of the room can really bring alive the room in the house. This is whats called a deep depth of field (DOF) and by by using a Canon 7D you can develop a property video will almost a 3D type effect.

Aperture (F/stop)

How big is the aperture determines how much of the shot is at focus. The iris in the camera works like the human eye – if you find plenty of bright light our pupils contract nevertheless they get wider if we are in a very darkened room. On the camera we could adjust the iris to be wide-open (low F-stop) or more closed down (high F-stop) – this is known as stopping down.

If we open the iris wide open, the focal plane (what amount of the image is focus) is very narrow so we get a shallow depth of field where one the main mage is razor sharp and also the rest of the image is blurred. This is useful if you want to spotlight a crucial feature in a building i.e dado rail profile, fireplace engraving, designer handles, taps,etc.

Closing down the iris, widens the focal plane and brings many room into focus.

Hyperfocal distance

This can be a complicated and specialised part of film-making that has been utilized on Hollywood sets for more than 70 years. The following is a lay-man’s help guide by using this method to acquire more of your respective shots in razor sharp focus.

The focal distance is the distance involving the camera and what you give attention to. This distance could be altered by changing the main focus ring on the lens. As an example the Tokina 11-16 lens might be rotated between 0.7m to infinity.

One would imagine by changing the focal distance to infinity when shooting an inside room it could produce a deep depth of field with everything in focus that is definitely not the case.

Usually of thumb, whenever you target an interest, the focal plane extends to 2/3 beyond the centerpiece simply 1/3 before it. If we target infinity at the corner with the room, 2/3 from the focal plane has been wasted beyond that, while only a 1/3 is at focus in the room.

The first thing we should instead do would be to look at the distance for the subject, in this instance from you lens towards the corner of a family area. A quick way to do this is to use an electric distance meter (simpler than employing a tape measure!) They are available as either Ultra sound (cheaper but less accurate) or Laser (expensive but more accurate)

We make measurement from the camera to the furthest corner we wish in focus, and divide this length by 3 to give us the hyperfocal distance (HFD). We have now set the camera’s focal length about the lens never to infinity but to the HFD measurement (feet or metres). As a result, the first 1/3 ahead of the focus and the 2/3 beyond it’ll all be in focus – i.e the whole room.

How big the aperture (f/stop) also is needed here, and also for the sake of simplicity in addition to being a first step the 1/3 rule is effective. If you get to the stage that you would like to get more precise and incorporate the f/stop reading you will need to consult a hyperfocal distance charts, which calculates your HFD according to your focal distance and f-stop – ladies great free iPhone App that actually works the gap out in your case.

Sharpening

Artificial sharpening in the focussing can also be completed in 2 ways and there is two distinct ways of thinking on how to undertake it.

(1) In-camera sharpening – this can be a establishing canon’s 7D within the picture profile setting. There is a replacement for either reduce and sometimes improve the sharpness level. Many individuals turn the sharpening right down to 0 given that they accept is as true boosts the ‘moire’ effect, unwanted fuzzyiness on thin vertical and horizontal lines – eg it could often be seen on the little difference of roof tiles.

(2) Post-production – there exists a array of sharpening tools which claim to sharpen increase DSLR. X is a great tool for both sharpening and decreasing the noise in footage. Only problem with may be the long render times. Another quicker solution if you’re a Final Cut Pro User is to apply the preset sharpen tool that does a decent job without having to render.

Artificial sharpening is simply that, a synthetic method to manipulate the original video clips. Whether its over-used it can look crude and unnatural, its their to create good footage look fantastic to never rectify poorly shot footage.